I have had many requests for specific written instructions on my modified Cobblestone, so here goes. *I have NEVER written a pattern so if it’s not all “professional” looking….*
Yarn: 5 Skeins Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool in color 59.
Needles: #4 US Knit Pick Option 24″ Circulars
Gauge: 5.5 stitches per inch
Cast on 176 stitches. Place marker. Join in round.
Moss stitch pattern.
1: *K1, P1 repeat between *
2: *P1, K1 repeat between *
Repeats 1 and 2 until work measures 2″ from cast on edge.
Next Round: k1, p1 over 15 stitches. Place marker. Knit 73. Place marker. K1, p1 over 15 stitches. Place marker. Knit 73. Continuing to follow in pattern, knit until work measures 4″ from cast on edge.
Decrease rounds: k1, p1 over 15 stitches , slip marker, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog tbl(or whatever method you prefer to make a left slant decrease.) Knit 1, Slip marker. k1, p1 over 15 stitches. Slip marker. Knit 1. K2tog, knit to three stitches before eor(end of round) marker, k2tog tbl(or whatever method you prefer to make a left slant decrease. (172 stitches)
Decrease every 6th row 3 more times. (160 stitches)
Continuing in pattern, Knit until work measures 19″ from cast on edge.
*Note: I did NOT make any waist/ribcage increases. The great thing about this pattern is that it incorporates short rows which you’d have to utilize for the bust.*
Sleeves (Make 2)
I knit my sleeves flat because I’m not a fan of the look of my stitches with the other methods. You can utilize any method most comfortable for you.
Cast on 52 stitches. In moss stitch, knit until cuff measures 1.5″. Knit until sleeve measures 11.5″.
Increase round: Knit 2. Make one. Knit to 2 stitches before end of row, make one.
Increase every 6th row, 3 times. Knit until sleeve measures 19″ from cast on edge.
Yoke (Done all in moss pattern)
Follow the original instructions, only allow for sleeve, and body increases/decreases you may have done.
Moss stitch is incredibly difficult to decrease with and still keep the pattern looking as it should. So when you’re doing the yoke decreases you need to keep in account the stitch below and match accordingly. With this method you may have to accommodate for the following stitch, meaning you may have two decreases in a row. The yoke part of my sweater was all hit or miss and essentially I ripped, redid, ripped, redid, before finding a decrease pattern that I liked.
I also skipped all the short rows, and did not follow the yoke completely. I ended up doing three rounds of decreases, and my yoke measures 6″.
Good luck. Hopefully it’s understandable, I did the best I could considering I didn’t write anything down and it’s been several weeks since I finished it. Be kind. 😉